
To winterize pontoon boat systems properly, follow these six essential steps:
Your pontoon boat is a serious investment. And when New England winter arrives, it doesn't give you much warning.
Water expands by about 9% when it freezes. Inside an engine block or cooling system, that expansion pushes outward with tens of thousands of pounds per square inch. The result can be cracked engine blocks, split hoses, and destroyed exhaust manifolds - repairs that cost far more than a proper winterization ever would.
The numbers back this up. Analysis of a decade of freeze damage claims found that more than 95% of those claims could have been prevented by following basic winterizing steps. Most of the damage came down to one thing: water left sitting in the engine or cooling system during a hard freeze.
Skipping winterization isn't just a risk to your engine. It can also create problems with your insurance coverage if freeze damage is deemed the result of negligence.
The good news is that most of this is straightforward to do yourself - or to hand off to a qualified marine technician if you'd rather not dig into the engine side of things.
I'm Ron Cribbie, owner of Atlantic Boat Repair, a full-service marine shop based in New England with decades of hands-on experience helping boat owners properly winterize pontoon boat systems and get them back on the water in spring without surprises. In the steps below, I'll walk you through exactly what needs to be done - and what most owners get wrong.
Living and boating around Plymouth, Kingston, and the South Shore means we deal with real winters. When the temperature drops and stays below freezing for days at a time, any residual water left in your boat's systems becomes a ticking time bomb.
As mentioned, fresh water expands by roughly 9% when it turns to ice. That expansion is powerful enough to crack heavy-duty cast iron engine blocks and shatter aluminum exhaust manifolds. According to the BoatUS Boater's Guide to Winterizing, more than three-quarters of freeze-related insurance claims over a ten-year period involved cracks in the engine block or exhaust manifolds.
If you don't take the time to properly winterize pontoon boat components, you aren't just risking a repair bill—you're risking the entire season next year. Many insurance policies specifically exclude damage caused by "lack of maintenance," which often includes freeze damage if you didn't follow standard layup procedures. For a look at the full scope of what we handle, you can see our Services page.
Most modern pontoon boats are powered by outboard motors. While outboards are generally "self-draining" when tilted into the full vertical (down) position, they are not immune to winter damage.
If there is an obstruction in the cooling passages—like sand, silt, or a bit of plastic—water can get trapped. When that pocket of water freezes, it can crack the midsection or the lower unit housing. Furthermore, the lower unit contains gear lube; if a seal is leaky and water has mixed with that oil, the water will settle at the bottom, freeze, and potentially crack the gearcase.
Winterization is about more than just the engine. It’s about protecting the fuel, the electrical system, and the structure of the boat itself.

One of the biggest headaches we see in the spring is "phase separation" in fuel tanks. Most fuel at our local docks and gas stations contains up to 10% ethanol. Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air.
During the winter, temperature swings cause the air inside your fuel tank to expand and contract. This draws in moist air, which condenses into water on the tank walls. If enough water accumulates, the ethanol bonds with the water and sinks to the bottom of the tank, leaving a low-octane "gluing" mess at the top and a water-ethanol mix at the bottom that your engine cannot burn.
To prevent this:
For more on manufacturer-specific fuel recommendations, you can check resources like the Avalon Pontoon Guide.
In our neck of the woods, marine growth can be aggressive. If you leave algae or barnacles on your aluminum pontoons all winter, they will bake into the metal and become nearly impossible to remove in the spring.
We recommend pressure washing the "toons" immediately after pulling the boat from the water while they are still wet. Once dry, you can apply a specialized aluminum cleaner or polish to protect the metal from oxidation.
For the interior:
Check out these tips from Harris Boats for more interior care advice.
Where you put your boat for the winter is just as important as how you prep it. In Massachusetts, heavy snow loads are a real concern.
Whether you do it yourself or bring it to us, the engine requires the most technical attention.
You can find more detailed engine checklists at Godfrey Pontoon Boats.
If you are storing your boat outdoors on the South Shore, shrink-wrapping is the gold standard. A professional shrink-wrap job includes a wooden or plastic support frame that creates a steep pitch, allowing snow and ice to slide right off. It also seals the boat tightly against the elements.
If you use a custom canvas cover, you must use support poles to prevent water from pooling. A "belly" in the cover filled with 50 gallons of water or a heavy snowdrift can easily bend your aluminum railings or snap the support poles.
Dry Dock vs. In-Water: We strongly recommend pulling pontoon boats out of the water for the winter. Ice expansion in a tight slip can crush aluminum pontoons, and if a bilge pump fails or a battery dies, the boat can sink. Storing on a trailer or blocks is much safer.
Many owners try to save a few bucks by taking shortcuts, but those shortcuts often lead to a "0" time rebuild being necessary—something we specialize in here at Atlantic Boat Repair when things go wrong.
| Item | DIY Estimated Cost | Professional Estimated Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Materials (Oil, Filters, Stabilizer, Fogging Oil) | ~$130 - $150 | Included in service |
| Shrink Wrap / Covering | ~$100 (Tarp/Frame) | ~$300 - $500 |
| Engine Service Labor | $0 | ~$200 - $600 |
| Total | ~$250 | ~$500 - $1,100 |
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
For a deeper dive into these costs, Tahoe Pontoons offers a great breakdown.
In Massachusetts, you should pull it out. Our coastal waters and inland lakes freeze hard enough to buckle aluminum tubes. Additionally, leaving a boat in the water requires the battery to stay charged to run the bilge pump. If the battery dies during a snowstorm, the weight of the snow could push the boat low enough to take on water and sink.
Rodents are a major issue in places like Bourne and Sandwich. The best defense is removing all food traces and using a tight seal like shrink wrap. We also recommend peppermint oil spray around the perimeter. Avoid using "poison" inside the boat, as the rodent may crawl into a hard-to-reach spot (like inside a seat cushion or a wiring loom) and die, leaving a smell that lasts for years.
De-winterizing is about reversing the process safely.
For a full spring checklist, see Pontoonopedia.
Taking the time to winterize pontoon boat systems correctly is the difference between a stress-free spring launch and a very expensive trip to the repair shop. While many of these steps are DIY-friendly, the engine work requires precision to ensure long-term reliability.
At Atlantic Boat Rental & Repair, we pride ourselves on precision that exceeds manufacturer specs. Whether you need a full winterization service or you're looking for one of our "0" time rebuilt outboard engines to start the next season fresh, we’re here to help.
If you’re in the Plymouth or South Shore area and want to ensure your boat is handled by pros who know New England winters, we’re happy to take a look and give you an honest recommendation.
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