Updates, explanations, and useful guidance from the Atlantic Boat Repair team.
14 articles
Book in late summer, plan on the work happening in the fall, and have the boat finished before the first hard freeze. Here is how the fall schedule really works around Plymouth, and everything a full winterization covers.
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Close to 150 people called the shop in July. Here are the questions that came up over and over, and how we think about each one.
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A boat repower is more than swapping out an old motor. Modern outboards open the door to updated controls, digital gauges, integrated steering, and a helm that actually matches how you want to use your boat.
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Still love your boat but dreading every start? Learn the clear signs it's time for a boat repower, how repowering compares to continued repairs, and what the process actually involves.
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Small outboards in the 2 to 6 HP range power dinghies, inflatables, canoes, kayaks with motor mounts, and small tenders. At this price point, brand matters less than you think. Most failures come from improper application, saltwater neglect, or unknown service history, not from which manufacturer built the motor.
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The 25 to 30 HP range is where outboard shopping gets serious. These motors power aluminum fishing boats, center consoles, and inflatables that need to plane reliably with a load. Here is how the leading options compare for New England saltwater use.
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The 6 HP and 9.9 HP range covers a lot of boats, from dinghies to jon boats to small aluminum hulls. Here is how the leading options compare, with a note on why the 9.9 HP class is especially important for Massachusetts boaters.
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The 15 to 20 HP range is one of the most practical buying decisions in boating. Enough power to plane a wide range of hulls, light enough to carry, and priced where the investment makes sense. Here is how the leading motors compare, and the one thing that matters more than which brand you pick.
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Fiberglass boats are resilient but not indestructible. The most important skill in boat ownership is knowing the difference between gelcoat damage you can address yourself and structural fiberglass damage that requires professional repair. Here is how to tell them apart.
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Lower unit oil is the most important fluid most boat owners are not checking. Changed every 100 hours or annually, it protects the gears and bearings that convert engine power into propeller thrust. Here is everything you need to know: what it does, how to read the warning signs, and how to change it yourself.
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A motor tune-up is preventative maintenance that inspects, adjusts, and replaces wear components before they fail on the water. For outboards in New England saltwater, the marine environment makes regular service more important and more specific than a typical automotive tune-up.
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After attending an industry seminar and talking with multiple battery vendors, our recommendation for most outboard-powered boats in our area has not changed: AGM batteries are the right call for the majority of boaters. Here is why, and what the alternatives look like.
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Ceramic coating is heavily marketed as a DIY solution for faded, chalked, and scratched boat hulls. Most of it is not accurate for older boats. After thirty years of marine work, here is what we have actually found.
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Skipping winterization to save a few hundred dollars routinely leads to repair bills in the thousands come spring. Here is what actually happens to your engine, hull, fuel system, battery, and trailer when a New England winter goes through an unprepared boat.
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